Merry Christmas from Prague!

Christmas was very different for me this year - on another continent, in a strange city and on my own. I was up early and headed out the door to do more exploring in this beautiful city.

Took a boat ride on the Vltava River where views of grand old buildings and many landmarks can be seen from the water. Seeing as it was a tad chilly, I savored the hot raspberries with ice cream dessert and enjoyed the sunshine streaming in through the window!

Checked out Wenceslas Square - many historical events and demonstrations have occurred here and in medieval times it was a site of several public executions. The National Museum dominates the square with its stunning beauty and size. A walk through Kampa Park to burn off dessert is where I discovered some unusual pieces of art and just down the road from here is another large park with a memorial dedicated to the vicitims of communism. Christmas Day ended by going for out for supper at Valcha - an away from the tourist area restaurant that serves amazing authentic Czech food.

One of the most popular sites here is Charles Bridge - in 1357 building started and was completed the beginning of the 15th century. This stone bridge is stunning - over 500m long and 10m wide and decorated with baroque statues. Strolling along the bridge one can enjoy the buskers and artists peddling paintings, photography, jewellery and more. When you cross the bridge a climb up the Old Town Bridge Tower will provide you with amazing panoramic views of the city!

Prague Castle, is of course, another must see here! It is noted in the Guinness Book of World Records as the largest, ancient castle in the world. The complex sits on over 18 acres and St. Vitus Cathedral - the largest temple in Prague lives on the grounds as well, the size of this cathedral is jaw dropping!

Shooter's Island which sits under the Legion Bridge in the middle of Vltava River is a beautiful place to go for a walk, sit on a bench and take in the amazing views of the city! It also hosts a playground and a restaurant on the island and once upon a time it was a place for Prague shooters to practice the art of shooting from bows and crossbows.

Down the street from Wenceslas Square is Old Town Square with several ancient buildings and Churches dating from the 12th century, the Jan Hus Statue, which was erected in 1915 sits in the middle of the square; and the world's third oldest Astronomical clock that was installed in 1410 is still ticking!

Budapest - I do not speak Hungarian

"I do not speak Hungarian"

This is my new line.....I've said most everyday for the past two weeks. I love the people here in Budapest, despite not speaking the same language, they will either find someone to help out or continue the conversation......eventually you figure out what each other is saying. Many do speak English however, so it's been easy going for the most part.
Budapest was founded in 897 and is one of the oldest countries in Europe, it is a beautiful place full of history, art, culture, theatres, museums and galleries. The streets are lined with huge buildings with beautiful carvings and sculptures; I barely scratched the surface but managed to make my way to some interesting places.

Show Time!

With The Gypsy Symphony Orchestra playing live in the background, the talented group of handsome men and beautiful ladies danced, acted and sang out the story of Fergeteges which included a Queen, Count and of course a gypsy girl. I remember as a little girl watching Hungarian dancing on TV and being in awe of them, never imaged I would watch a live performance in Hungary. The second show was a song and dance story about Frank Sinatra, which was entertaining as well, you would almost think Frank was there himself!

The family I stayed with in Malta is from Budapest and we shared accommodations for the first week here - I joined Karin and the kids for an afternoon at Millipop Funhouse - a play place where I could behave like a 6 year old and get away with it. Went to a Christmas/Folk/World music show and another musical get together, as well as attended a few Nia classes which is a nice little workout of dance and martial arts combined. There are many cozy Tea Houses one must go to, tables/chairs for the grown ups and areas with comfy bean bag chairs - you know where I was sitting.

Heroes' Square

Heroes' Square was one of the first places I went to - it is the largest square in the city and commemorates the 1000 year old history of the Hungarians. There are statues of the Chieftains, Kings and other important historical figures within the square and on the colonnades; as well, Archangel Gabriel standing on the top of the centre pillar in the square.

Also at Heroes' Square are a couple museums; The Fine Arts Museum and The Art Gallery. I don't really know a lot about art (I like to draw cartoons and color - does that count?) but I do know Rembrandt is a big deal and they happened to have an exhibition of his works at The Fine Arts Museum. I spent the entire day here going through the displays of Rembrandt, The Dutch of Golden Age, an Egyptian Art display, and more. It was amazing looking at art created from the 15th through the 18th century.

Terror Háza (The House of Terror)

This is said to be one of the most powerful museums in Europe. It is a sad and disturbing illustration of two of the most tragic periods of Hungary history. This museum is the former headquarters for the secret police of both the Nazi and Communist governments and holds 50 years of fear for the people of this country. As you walk through a maze of displays there are chilling black and white videos showing interviews of people telling their stories during these tragic times. When you are able to tear yourself away, an elevator takes you to the basement and takes 3 painstaking minutes to get there during which a video is played of a guard explaining the execution process. I could not leave the basement fast enough.

Castle District

The Castle District, which is a World Unesco Heritage Site is a beautiful area with the Royal Palace, Matthias Church, medieval houses, museums and more. I explored the Castle and of course the Labyrinth.

The Labyrinth, built during the middle ages, is 16 m underground and served as a shelter and hospital during WWII; in the 15th century it was used as a prison and a famous prisoner named Vlad Tepes AKA Count Dracula was held here. It is a dark, dank, underground cave and to add to the spookiness they feel the need to play Opera music while you are going through the maze of tunnels. They have a special little part called The Maze of Darkness. The sign beside it says: "Complete darkness rules this section of the labyrinth. The Maze of Darkness deceives our senses, puts our perceptions to test, whilst expanding our minds. However, it is difficult to calmly move along in the dark when the visitors know that paranormal phenomena have been observed: descending white fog, sounds of whispers, a drop of temperature and shadows never to be caught up with. It has happened that a visitor has met with themselves. Many have walked through the Maze of Darkness so don't you hang around either...." they do offer you a thread as handhold, how nice......not freaking likely.

St. Stephens Basilica

This is the largest Church in Budapest and was dedicated to none other than St. Stephen who was Hungary's first King. This amazing building can hold approximately 8500 people and the architecture is breathtaking; you can climb the stairs to the top and get a panoramic view of the entire city! I climbed most of the way up and then there is an elevator the rest of the way (missed where the rest of the stairs were hiding)....the last time I was in a Church elevator was on Gozo Island and when I was in it the power went out and it stopped. I did not think it was very funny at the time, the thought of being trapped in a Church elevator with no one around was unnerving.....of course I said "please God no", pushed the button and it started up again.....phew.......I'm pretty sure I heard the big guy chuckle.

The Opera House

This beautiful building was opened to the public in 1884 and is considered to be amongst the best in the world in terms of its acoustics, unable to get tickets to a show I settled for a tour and "mini-show".

Cat Cafe

Clearly these are a popular thing in Europe.........

My Teeny Tiny Apartment

The apartment I rented for myself the second week here is very small but cozy......the door has a cage on the outside of it (for my protection?).....it makes me wonder how one would lock or unlock the door in a hurry, like if a knife wielding maniac was after you, if you had to go pee really bad or a fire happened inside.....3 locks to lock and unlock when you are coming and going. The bed is super comfy for meditating or sleeping; the stairs, however barely hold my ass to sit and contemplate what exactly I'm doing with myself but the little sofa made up for it so I was able to watch some TV........ I will contemplate my sanity on the train tomorrow to Prague.........

Malta & Gozo - Goodbye

After almost six weeks, I'm leaving Malta, the warm sun and beautiful blue sea behind for Budapest. I've been questioning this decision for the past week as it's a tad chilly where I'm going; but, being Canadian and able to handle the hearty winters, six degrees is doable and I'm certain there will be no sympathy from my people who have endured a rough start to winter.

Malta is an amazing place, rich in history, impressive architecture and kind, friendly people. I loved my stay here - the hang on at all times with both hands bus rides, tiny sidewalks, the cats - even if they scare me a little, surviving yoga and pilates, the cliffs, caves, temples, hearing Church bells ringing, the incredible views, and of course being able to walk down to the sea and watch the waves crash up on the rocks in front of me.

Thank you Malta - I will see you again!

Malta & Gozo - Temples to Worship

There are 7 megalithic temples on the islands - I made it to five of them, another was closed and the next I never made it to the site, so I'll need to return!

Hal Saflieni - Hypogeum

This underground prehistoric burial site was used from around 4000BC-2500BC and is claimed to be "one of the most extraordinary archaeological sites in the world". It was discovered by accident in 1902 by a stone mason who was laying the foundations to build a number of houses and by the time it was reported most of the houses had been completed. Eventually the houses were all moved and excavation continued throughout the years. The complex is made up of interconnecting rock-cut chambers set on three separate levels and still contains decorative red ochre paintings on the walls which are the oldest and only prehistoric paintings recorded on the Islands. It has been calculated that around 7,000 people were buried here throughout the centuries.
No cameras allowed inside, so here's pics of the postcards and the information from them:

This shows the Middle Level - Central Chamber, one of the most spectacular rooms of the Hypogeum, is carved to look like the interior of a megalithic building. It has survived intact for 5,000 years and is a tribute to the skill of the prehistoric craftsmen who created it, and to their deep understanding of local stone. The hole to the left was probably cut during a later period and may date from the Bronze Age, which followed the Temple Period, or may even be more recent.

Top Left - Middle Level - the chamber to the left, consisting of a pit surrounded by a ledge of rock, is where the famous statuette known as the 'Sleeping Lady' was found in 1905 (shown to the right, this small ceramic figurine measures 12 cm in length). Several other statuettes made of stone and clay were found in the Hypogeum. The pillars in the centre and far right of the picture are covered in a pattern formed of many small holes typical of the megalithic temples built above ground.

Bottom Left - These wall paintings are found in the room known as the 'Oracle Chamber'. They were made using a mineral pigment called red ochre.

Bottom Right - The chamber 'Holy of Holies', was clearly a very important area. It is carved from the rock but was designed to look like a built structure giving the illusion you are standing inside a megalithic building like the temples built above ground. This shows what the roofs of the temples may have looked like, with one ring of stone above the other, each time with a smaller diameter.

Hagar Qim and Mnajdra Temples

Before venturing out to the temples, a short 4D movie plays and features the construction of the temples centuries ago, to the time they were excavated and up to this very day. You will walk away with a deeper appreciation and understanding of the site and its architecture.

On a hilltop overlooking the sea is Hagar Qim, built around 3600-3200BC; within the structure and between what appears as a doorway is a beautiful view of the islet of Filfla. The main building is said to be the most complicated as it obviously was not planned and had been modified and extended at different times. (renovations have been going on for centuries in all cultures!) Similar buildings have been found in more than 20 different places in Malta and Gozo.
At the bottom of the hill 500 m away is Mnajdra with 3 buildings, it is believed the first structure was built 3600-3200BC; the second 3150-2500BC and a central temple in between these was built later.

Tarxien Temples

The building of these temples began in 3600BC and contains a high concentration of megalithic art - stone blocks with carvings of various spiral designs and animals which include goats, bulls, pigs and a ram. It is believed the buildings here were originally an important communal centre, however at the end of the temple culture the site was used for funeral purposes and turned in a cremation cemetery. These temples were discovered in the early 1900's.

Ta Hagrat and Skorba

These temples show how the tradition of temple building was handed down in Malta and represent a unique architectural tradition that was abundant here between 3600-2500BC.
On a whim I got off the bus to see the temples but they were closed, I was able to snap a few pics of Ta Hagrat through the bars, although I would like to come back and have a closer look.

Ggantija Temples

The Ggantija complex dates back from around 3600-3200BC and consists of two temples surrounded by a huge boundary wall. It's no wonder the locals believe that these temples were the works of giants as many of the stones exceed 5 m in length and weigh over 50 tons. Ggantija is Maltese for "giant"; these temples on the Island of Gozo are the world's oldest freestanding monuments.

Churches of Malta

There are around 365 Churches on the Maltese Island - look around the corner and you will find another and another. Their magnificence, beauty and amazing energy will certainly have you in awe. There is much more to be said on these historic Temples and beautiful Churches - there are fascinating stories behind each and every one!

Malta & Gozo - Cliffs, Caves and a Stalker

There are many beaches here on Malta and wherever you go, the views are stunning. Take the many beautiful shades of the blue Mediterrean Sea, add some sunshine, maybe a cold one and you have a lovely day indeed.
Out at Golden Bay I enjoyed lunch and then found a trail to hike up to the top of the cliffs to get a better view, it was amazing...Golden Bay on one side and Ghajn Tuffieha on the other. I was fumbling with my camera to get a picture happening and a couple fellows came by and one offered in his broken English to take my pic - once he snapped it, the other fellow said to wait and jumped in beside me for a picture and said "you be my wife eh"......ahhhh ummmm, smile and take the picture.

Blue Grotto is another gem on Malta, went out here twice as the first time I missed the temples and was going to see about a boat ride to the Blue Grotto Caves. It's about a 30 minute walk from the temples to the village of Blue Grotto and despite it being in the middle of nowhere and nothing nearby there are extra wide sidewalks most of the way to the village and of course a ledge for part of it that you can walk along to avoid being run down by a vehicle. Before heading to the village I checked the bus stop - busses come out once an hour here - this is where I met my new stalker.....friend Alexandria, he kindly stopped and asked if I was going to Blue Grotto and offered me a ride.....ahh, no thanks, I'm walking.....how about a boat ride? Dingli Cliffs? I take you......ahhh, no thanks, I'm good......it's a long walk.......it's ok, I need the exercise (remember, muffin top)......it's ok, it's safe......nope.
When I made it to the last hill heading to the village, he came by again and offered me a ride back to the village of Zurrrieq - which is where I would eventually need to be to head back.....nooooooo, seriously, I'm good. A tour bus came by, he stopped and told me to get on saying it was too far to walk......sigh....don't these people walk?
Well, after a walkabout in Blue Grotto and finding no boats were running as the sea was a tad angry and wouldn't have it, I took a seat down on the rocks for a bit.......and who shows up but my new stalker friend.......so we have a chat.....claims he was just being helpful.....mmhmm. I let stalker Alexandria take a pic at the top of the cave I was checking out and off I went to catch a bus.

The Island of Gozo has a beautiful treasure called Dwejra and I was fortunate to make it out here twice. Four euros will get you a boat ride for a birds eye view of the Azure Window and Fungus Rock. The boat guy did not want to take me as I was solo.......said he had to charge me double....I don't care, just take me! Where was my stalker friend when I needed a buddy?
A short exit from the bay, into a cave, out the other side and you are on the open sea......in a little boat.......little......why was this a good idea? where is my life jacket?........you quickly forget when you start snapping pictures of the massive limestone walls, the caves, the coral - it's mesmerizing.

Enjoyed an evening out to watch a Flamenco show. "Aire Flamenco", a wonderful performance - gorgeous dresses, tiaras, music and off course pretty shoes!

A visit to Malta must include taking part of "The Malta Experience". The underground theatre runs a 45 minute show which covers 7000 years of history and the events that have shaped the Maltese islands. From the early settlers of the temple period to the Knights of the Great Siege through to the destruction of World War 2 - the history here is mind boggling. Afterwards, there is a short walking tour through what was once The hospital of the Knights of St. John, built in 1574, which is now known as the Mediterrean Conference Centre. Hard to believe the floors they laid down in the 15th century are still intact in parts of this building and being walked on daily. There are 3 levels underground in this building!

A Horse Carriage Cab is an enjoyable way to have a little tour of the Valletta area. I had a great driver who stopped at various points and shooed me off to look at this and that and take photos, I didn't have the heart to tell him I had already been to and taken pics at many of the spots.......I just wanted a ride in the horse carriage.

Malta - Here Kitty Kitty

The cats still kinda freak me out here - there is just so many of them. There is an SPCA here but like I mentioned in a previous post there are many stray cats here and people in the community take care of the ones wandering around.

One afternoon I joined my host Karin and her two young children Yasmine and Benji to the playground and then we went to see the Cat Park. A cat park - yes, a park for cats - cats only.

If you build it, they will come.

There are baskets, animals crates, a wooden fort of sorts and they are all lined with blankets; one has a fur blanket, I wonder how Mr. Kitty feels about that. There are regulars who come by to check on the cats, feed the cats, watch them, pet them....you get the idea.

Young Benji was showing me a cat in one of the crates and a lady came up behind me and said "Please don't disturb the cat, he's sleeping." My jaw dropped to the ground.....really? Did she really think I was going to reach inside a crate to play with a sleeping cat?

Oh, but wait....there's more

A couple days later whilst out wandering aimlessly in Valletta I came across a Cat Café. Yes indeed, there it was - a Cat Feeding Station & Shelter. A lovely woman who comes by regularly to feed the cats was there tending to the lucky felines, had a little chat with her and asked her to be in the photo but she wouldn't have it - claimed she was not dressed for a picture and was heading to the store for the sales on cat food as it was Friday and there were three other stations that needed to be looked after before the weekend.

If no cats live in your area - it's because they've moved to Malta. It's sunny and warm with a sea side view, never-ending admiration and food.

The cats here have got it going on!

Malta - Walking on the Edge

Side•walk

noun \sid-wok\
: a usually concrete path along the side of a street for people to walk on.

Malta took this very seriously.
Some of the sidewalks are so narrow here in Malta there is just barely enough room for one person to walk it, the chance of elbowing a car as it whizzes past you is a real possibility; it's too close for comfort and if you meet someone, one of you is going on the street or ducking into a doorway to the let the other pass. Sometimes the sidewalk just ends, that's it - nowhere to walk - I have turned around a few times, walking along with the traffic is not an option here. Not only are a lot of the sidewalks narrow but so are the streets, drivers are pretty patient here, having to stop often to let other vehicles pass by before continuing on their journey.

There are indeed wider sidewalks here and the 4 km long Promenade along the beautiful Silema seafront is very generous for those taking a leisurly stroll, jogging or riding a bike.

My favorite is the top left picture, a line with two people painted on the walking side; then there was the tunnel, needing to get to the other side and not sure if it was pedestrian friendly I went for it and indeed there's a line - room enough for one to walk....it can be a little sporty.

Pull right up

Many of the gas stations here are simply along the sidewalk with a small storefront there are some larger pull-through stations but most you pull off the main road and have your car fueled up. That's the air hose in the cone!

There are 89 petrol stations here and fuel prices are the same all over Malta and Gozo so comparing prices is not necessary; the minimum age to drive here is 18. Vehicles are so much smaller here than back home - my "small" car that I drive back home is ginormous compared to most cars here!

It's dark in there!

On one of the hop-on hop-off bus trips it was decided that going the the Ghar Dalam Cave & Museum would be a good idea. Caves are not really my favorite place to be and it was not until I was at the entrance to head into the cave I realized I'm alone, going into a dark cave, why am I doing this? It's 144 meters deep - surely I can handle that. As it turned out you could only go the first 70 metres - even better.

Ghar Dalam - means "Dark Cave", discovered in the latter half of the 19th century it is Malta's oldest prehistoric site, there are bones of ice age animals visible inside the cave and the museum contains thousands of semi-fossilized bones. It was very interesting and I forgot that I was all alone in the cave till I heard whispery voices in the dark.......not cool.

Back outside where the welcoming sun is there are benches and lovely foliage and I was very pleased to capture a bee and two different butterflies on flowers! A flower book is in the works.

Hope you are enjoying Gypsy Travels Blogs!
More to come on the Cats of Malta.